Capturing the Northern Lights
Photographing the northern lights is one of the most rewarding challenges in photography. Unlike daytime landscapes, aurora photography requires understanding manual camera settings, working in extreme cold, and adapting to rapidly changing light conditions. But with the right knowledge and preparation, anyone with a modern camera can capture stunning aurora images.
This guide covers everything you need to know: essential camera settings, required equipment, composition techniques, and common mistakes to avoid. Whether you're using a professional DSLR, mirrorless camera, or even a high-end smartphone, you'll learn how to capture the magic of the northern lights.
⚡ Quick Reference: Camera Settings Cheat Sheet
Essential Camera Settings
Aurora photography requires full manual control. Auto modes will not work in these low-light conditions. Here's how to set up your camera:
📸 Shutter Speed
5-15 seconds
Starting point: 8 seconds
- Faint auroras: 10-20 seconds
- Bright, slow auroras: 5-10 seconds
- Fast-moving auroras: 2-5 seconds (prevents blur)
- Very bright (KP 7+): 1-3 seconds
Why: Longer exposures capture more light but can blur fast-moving auroras. Adjust based on brightness and movement speed.
🔆 Aperture (f-stop)
f/1.4 - f/2.8
Widest possible aperture
- f/1.4: Ideal (expensive lenses)
- f/1.8: Excellent (affordable option)
- f/2.8: Good (kit lens wide end)
- f/4+: Usable but requires longer exposures/higher ISO
Why: Wide apertures let in more light, allowing faster shutter speeds and lower ISO for cleaner images.
🎚️ ISO
1600-3200
Starting point: 1600
- Faint auroras: 2500-6400
- Moderate auroras: 1600-3200
- Bright auroras: 800-1600
- Very bright (KP 7+): 400-800
Why: Higher ISO increases light sensitivity but adds noise. Modern cameras handle 1600-3200 well. Avoid exceeding 6400 unless necessary.
🎯 Focus
Manual ∞
Set to infinity (∞)
- Switch lens to Manual Focus (MF)
- Focus on distant bright star or moon
- Or set focus ring to ∞ mark
- Use live view + zoom to verify sharpness
- Tape focus ring to prevent accidental changes
Why: Autofocus fails in darkness. Manual infinity focus ensures sharp stars and auroras.
🌡️ White Balance
3500-4500K
Starting point: 3800K
- Shoot RAW: Adjust later perfectly
- Custom WB: 3500-4500K range
- Auto WB: Often too warm/cool
- Tungsten preset: Sometimes works
Why: Preserves natural aurora colors. Too warm = yellows, too cool = excessive blues. RAW allows perfect adjustment in post.
💾 File Format
RAW
Always shoot RAW
- Maximum editing flexibility
- Recover blown highlights
- Adjust white balance perfectly
- Reduce noise in post-processing
- Bring out hidden aurora details
Why: JPEGs discard crucial data. RAW files preserve all image information, essential for bringing out aurora colors and details.
Starting Settings for First Shot: Manual mode, f/2.8, 8 seconds, ISO 1600, Manual focus at infinity, RAW format. Take a test shot, review, then adjust shutter speed and ISO based on results. These settings work for moderate auroras (KP 3-4) from dark locations.
Essential Equipment
📷 Camera ESSENTIAL
Requirement: Manual mode with adjustable ISO, shutter speed, and aperture.
- DSLR or Mirrorless: Best option—full manual control, interchangeable lenses, excellent low-light performance
- Advanced Compact: Some models offer manual controls (Sony RX100 series, Canon G-series)
- Smartphones: iPhone 14+ Pro, Samsung S21+ Ultra with night mode can capture auroras, but results limited compared to dedicated cameras
Recommendation: Any DSLR or mirrorless from the last 10 years will work excellently. Newer sensors handle high ISO better but aren't essential.
🔭 Wide-Angle Lens ESSENTIAL
Focal Length: 14-24mm ideal, 10-35mm range acceptable
Maximum Aperture: f/2.8 or wider (f/1.8, f/1.4)
- Budget Option: 24mm f/1.8 or 28mm f/1.8 (~$200-400)
- Mid-Range: 20mm f/1.8 or 24mm f/1.4 (~$500-900)
- Premium: 14-24mm f/2.8 zoom (~$1000-2000)
- Ultra-wide: 14mm f/1.8 for dramatic skies
Why wide angle: Captures more of the aurora display and dramatic foregrounds. f/2.8 or wider lets in enough light for short exposures.
🗜️ Sturdy Tripod ESSENTIAL
Absolutely required for sharp images during long exposures.
- Carbon fiber: Lightweight, stable in wind, better in cold (but expensive)
- Aluminum: Heavier but affordable and durable
- Height: Eye level when extended
- Weight capacity: 2-3x your camera + lens weight
- Features: Quick-release plate, ball head for easy adjustments
Cold weather tip: Avoid touching metal tripods with bare hands. Use foam grips or tape insulation.
📡 Remote Shutter Release RECOMMENDED
Prevents camera shake when pressing the shutter button.
- Wired remote: Most reliable, inexpensive ($10-30)
- Wireless remote: More convenient but batteries drain faster in cold
- Smartphone app: Many cameras have WiFi control apps (free)
- Alternative: Use 2-second self-timer (built into camera)
🔋 Extra Batteries ESSENTIAL
Cold drains batteries extremely fast—60-80% faster than normal!
- Bring 3-4 spare batteries minimum
- Keep spares warm in inside jacket pocket
- Swap batteries when camera shows 50% (they'll recover when warm)
- Charge all batteries daily
A battery lasting 500 shots normally might only last 100-150 shots at -20°C.
💡 Red Headlamp RECOMMENDED
For navigating and adjusting settings without ruining night vision.
- Red light: Preserves night vision (crucial!)
- White light: Only for setup, turn off during shooting
- Dimmer switch: Helpful for fine adjustments
White light destroys your night vision for 20-30 minutes and can ruin other photographers' shots.
🧤 Hand Warmers & Gloves ESSENTIAL
You'll be standing outside for hours in sub-zero temperatures.
- Photography gloves: Exposed fingertips for camera control
- Hand warmers: Disposable chemical warmers for pockets
- Layered system: Thin liner gloves under mittens
- Spare gloves: In case one pair gets wet/lost
🌫️ Lens Cleaning Kit RECOMMENDED
Condensation, snow, and ice fog can ruin shots.
- Microfiber cloth: For wiping condensation
- Rocket blower: For removing snow/ice safely
- Lens pen: For stubborn smudges
- UV filter: Protects front element (optional but cheap insurance)
⏱️ Intervalometer OPTIONAL
For creating aurora time-lapses.
- Programs camera to take photos at set intervals
- Example: 5-second exposure every 8 seconds for 2 hours
- Create stunning time-lapse videos
- Many remotes include intervalometer function
Composition Techniques
Great aurora photos aren't just about camera settings—composition is equally important. Here's how to create compelling images:
🏔️ Include Foreground Interest
Auroras alone can look flat. Add foreground elements for scale and context:
- Mountains, trees, or rock formations
- Silhouetted landscapes
- Cabins or buildings (with minimal light)
- Ice formations or frozen lakes
- Person with headlamp (light painting)
📐 Rule of Thirds
Place the horizon on the lower or upper third line:
- Lower third: Emphasizes sky/aurora
- Upper third: Emphasizes foreground
- Avoid centering the horizon
- Place interesting elements at intersection points
🌊 Water Reflections
Lakes, fjords, and ocean reflections double the impact:
- Calm water creates mirror reflections
- Position aurora above water in frame
- Use slightly longer exposures to smooth water
- Ice can create interesting foreground textures
⭐ Include Stars
Stars add depth and show the aurora's position in space:
- Use wide apertures (f/1.4-f/2.8) to capture stars
- Keep exposures under 20 seconds to avoid star trails
- Milky Way + aurora = spectacular combination
- Learn major constellations for context
🎭 Leading Lines
Use natural lines to draw eyes into the image:
- Roads or paths leading to horizon
- Rivers or shorelines
- Fence lines or tree lines
- Aurora curtains create natural vertical lines
🧍 Human Element
People provide scale and storytelling:
- Silhouette a person against the aurora
- Use headlamp for light painting effect
- Position person looking at aurora
- Keep person still during exposure
Advanced Techniques
Focus Stacking for Sharp Foreground + Sky
Challenge: Infinity focus keeps aurora/stars sharp but may blur close foreground.
Solution: Take two shots—one focused on foreground, one on sky—and blend in post-processing (Photoshop or Lightroom).
Light Painting Foreground
Add subtle illumination to dark foreground elements:
- Use flashlight or headlamp during exposure
- Paint slowly across trees, rocks, or buildings
- Use red or warm-colored light for natural look
- Keep light diffused and subtle—don't overdo it
- Practice timing and intensity before aurora appears
Panoramas for Wide Displays
Capture aurora spanning entire horizon:
- Shoot 3-5 vertical shots, overlapping 30%
- Use manual mode (same settings for all shots)
- Manual focus (don't refocus between shots)
- Stitch in Lightroom or Photoshop
- Works best with slow-moving auroras
Time-Lapse Photography
Create stunning aurora videos:
- Use intervalometer (built-in or external)
- Example: 5-sec exposure, 2-sec gap between shots, 2 hours = 1440 images
- Assemble in Adobe Premiere, Final Cut Pro, or free software (StarStax)
- Result: ~60-second video at 24fps showing hours of aurora movement
- Requires extra batteries—time-lapses drain power fast
⚠️ Condensation Warning: When bringing cold camera gear indoors, condensation forms instantly, potentially damaging electronics. Solution: Place camera in sealed plastic bag while still outside. Bring bag inside and let gear warm up for 1-2 hours before opening bag. This prevents condensation entirely.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
❌ Using Autofocus
Autofocus hunts endlessly in darkness and will never lock on. Always use manual focus set to infinity.
❌ Shooting JPEG Only
JPEGs compress aurora colors and lose detail. Always shoot RAW for maximum editing flexibility.
❌ Touching Camera During Exposure
Even slight movement blurs images during 5-15 second exposures. Use remote release or 2-second timer.
❌ Overexposing Bright Auroras
Blown-out white auroras lose all color detail. Check histogram—reduce ISO or shutter speed if highlights are clipped.
❌ Too-Long Exposures on Fast Auroras
Fast-moving auroras become blurry streaks with 15+ second exposures. Reduce shutter speed to 2-5 seconds for sharp detail.
❌ Ignoring Histogram
LCD screen brightness is deceiving. Check the histogram—it should have data across the range without spiking at edges.
❌ No Foreground Interest
Empty landscape with only aurora = boring composition. Include trees, mountains, water, or buildings for context.
❌ Running Out of Batteries
Cold kills batteries fast. Bring 3-4 spares and keep them warm in your jacket pocket.
Smartphone Photography
Modern flagship smartphones can capture auroras, though results won't match dedicated cameras:
Compatible Phones
- iPhone: 11 Pro or newer (Night Mode required)
- Samsung: S20 or newer (Pro Mode)
- Google Pixel: 4 or newer (Night Sight or Astrophotography Mode)
- Other flagship phones with manual/pro mode may work
Smartphone Settings
- Use Pro/Manual mode (not auto)
- Set ISO to 1600-3200
- Shutter speed: 10-30 seconds
- Focus to infinity manually if possible
- Use tripod or stabilize phone completely
- Use timer or bluetooth remote to trigger
Smartphone Limitations
- Small sensor captures less light than DSLR
- Fixed wide-angle lens (can't change)
- More noise at high ISO
- Limited manual control
- Battery drains extremely fast in cold
- Results depend heavily on aurora brightness
Verdict: Smartphones can capture moderate to bright auroras (KP 4+) but struggle with faint displays. Great for snapshots and sharing on social media, but serious photographers should use a dedicated camera.
Post-Processing Tips
RAW files need processing to look their best. Here's a basic workflow:
- Import to Lightroom/Photoshop: RAW files look flat initially—this is normal
- Adjust White Balance: 3500-4500K to bring out natural aurora colors
- Increase Vibrance/Saturation: Gently enhance aurora colors (don't overdo it—keep it natural)
- Adjust Exposure: Brighten if underexposed, but watch for blown highlights
- Highlights/Shadows: Recover blown aurora highlights, lift shadow details in foreground
- Clarity/Contrast: Add definition to aurora structures
- Noise Reduction: High ISO creates grain—reduce in Lightroom's Detail panel
- Sharpen: Add sharpening to stars and aurora details
- Crop/Straighten: Improve composition if needed
- Export: JPEG for sharing, keeping original RAW file
Golden Rule of Post-Processing: Enhance what's already there—don't create what wasn't. If your photo shows faint green aurora, don't crank saturation until it's neon. Aim for natural-looking colors that represent what the camera captured, just optimized.
Final Checklist Before Heading Out
📋 Pre-Shoot Checklist
- ✓ Camera battery charged + 3 spares in warm pocket
- ✓ Memory cards empty and formatted
- ✓ Camera set to Manual mode, RAW format
- ✓ Lens set to widest aperture (f/1.4-f/2.8)
- ✓ Lens switched to Manual Focus, set to infinity
- ✓ Tripod in car/bag with quick-release plate attached
- ✓ Remote shutter release or intervalometer
- ✓ Red headlamp with fresh batteries
- ✓ Hand warmers (10+ packs for long night)
- ✓ Photography gloves or liner gloves + mittens
- ✓ Lens cleaning cloth and rocket blower
- ✓ Plastic bag for condensation protection
- ✓ Warm thermos with hot drink
- ✓ Aurora forecast checked (KP index)
- ✓ Cloud cover forecast checked (clear skies essential)
- ✓ Location scouted during daylight if possible
- ✓ Fully charged phone for emergencies
Northern lights photography combines technical skill, patience, and a bit of luck. The more you practice, the better you'll understand how to adapt settings to changing aurora conditions. Don't get discouraged if your first shots aren't perfect—even experienced photographers constantly adjust and experiment throughout the night.
Most importantly: put the camera down occasionally and just watch. Seeing the aurora dance overhead with your own eyes is an unforgettable experience that no photograph can truly capture.